Tartiflette flanked by ham and salad on a table at Châlet la Pricaz in Montmin, France, above Lake Annecy
The tartiflette is perhaps the most comforting dish in all of
’s Haute-Savoie,…. The dish has the tang and satisfaction of macaroni and cheese baked until it forms a chewy crust, the pure pleasure derived from a bowl of creamy mashed potatoes and a flavor that could only come from 500 years spent perfecting cheesemaking.
The trick is the reblochon, which is sliced over the top before the dish is baked. Reblochon is a soft, washed-rind round cheese about as thick as a paperback copy of “Candide.” A good one has tang and aroma and a slightly salty quality. The bad are as bland and rubbery as cheap brie. The first thing to do with a tartiflette is to ease your fork through the crust of cheese. If the casserole is done right, that cut will release a whiff of milky steam infused with a suggestion of onion and garlic.